Air Travel Discount
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Climbing Shoes
Climbing shoes come in all shapes and sizes, and if
you’re a new climber it can be tough to know what shoe, or
even what type of shoe, to buy.
The biggest difference between climbing shoes is whether a certain shoe
is slip-lasted or board-lasted. Slip-lasted shoes have the
outer rubber of the shoe directly attatched to the leather or synthetic
inner of the shoe. This results in excellent sensitivity when
feeling for toe-holds, since you’re able to feel the shape
and texture of the holds beneath your feet. Slip-lasted
climbing shoes are also very flexible, making it easier to contort your
feet in cracks or “smear” your feet, placing the
ball of your foot on a flat wall and relying on the friction of the
shoe rubber against the rock to keep your foot in place.
Board-lasted shoes, on the other hand, have a rigid or semi-ridged
insert between the rubber of the shoe and the insole.
Board-lasted shoes are quite a bit stiffer than slip-lasted shoes, and
this stiffness brings with it some pros and cons. Some of the
benefits are that some people find that their feet get tired in
slip-lasted shoes, especially after a few hours of climbing.
This fatigue is due to the fact that their feet must be tensed to stay
on holds; the shoe doesn’t give them any support.
Board-lasted shoes naturally transfer your weight more evenly across
your foot, even if only your toe is on a hold.
They’re also good for tiptoeing on small edges or for
climbing long, multi-pitch routes. However, they’re
usually not as aggressive as slip-lasted shoes and won’t work
as well on extreme overhangs.
The shapes of shoes also differ considerably, from the bulky, all-day
board-lasted shoe to the aggressive, downward-turned shape of a
high-angle bouldering shoe. These aggressive shoes, with
their long, downward-shaping arches, are designed to allow the shoe to
hold on steep, overhanging walls. Though effective, the
extreme camber of these shoes can be uncomfortable, so most first-time
climbers should avoid them. Instead, look for shoes that you
can use to climb everywhere, from bouldering to multi-pitch climbing.
Also, decide if you want laces, a slip on, or Velcro closure on your
shoes. Lace-ups are usually the most comfortable but the
hardest to get on, making them good for multi-pitch routes but lousy
for bouldering. Slip on climbing shoes usually offer great
sensitivity but can be uncomfortable, while Velcro shoes usually offer
a good compromise between the two. Regardless of what type of
shoe you decide to get, make sure you try it on, get it sized small
enough to fit snugly, and try it out before making your purchase.